Linking 12 resorts across France and Switzerland, Portes du Soleil delivers 600km of slopes, accessible with just one ski pass. Sam Bradley reports

It’s my first time in Morzine and I’m (rather unexpectedly) chasing a flash of red down the piste ahead of me. It seems I’m no match for this speed machine; the faster I go, the further into the distance the dot seems to recede. That’s no surprise as I’m trying to keep up with Chrys Felisaz: famous Morzine local, former French ski champion and – today – my indefatigable guide to one of the largest ski domains in the world.

She’s on a mission to show me what lies beyond its chalet-lined streets and, as there’s a lot to see, we’re setting an exhausting pace. The chairlifts barely offer respite; as we glide upwards she gestures across ridgelines, mapping out favourite descents in winter and hiking routes for summer. The message is clear: this isn’t just a resort, it’s an ecosystem.

Once dusk falls, I find myself in the newly renovated Le Templin Bar, soaking up the après vibes while watching Chrys and other instructors (all head-to-foot in red gear) ski in the light procession and firework display. The party is already in full swing and the mood is festive: along with great ski conditions Morzine also boasts over 40 lively bars and restaurants, so it’s easy to understand Chrys’ love for the area. What catches me by surprise is her affection for nearby "rival" ski towns, as she also heaps glowing praise on the surrounding villages and ski areas.

12 resorts, two countries, one pass

This is part of a collaborative effort. Whereas in the past ski resorts would compete for those precious tourist dollars, the 12 ski resorts that make up Portes du Soleil now work together. Of course, this is easier said than done: co-ordinating lift systems between a dozen regions is hard enough, never mind between different currencies and even different countries.

But the results for visitors are frictionless: with just one ski pass guests can enjoy 600km of marked ski slopes, navigating 208 ski lifts hassle-free between 307 slopes. In an industry historically defined by rivalry, this Alpine alliance feels quietly radical. French raclette for lunch and Swiss fondue for dinner make for a mighty fine combination, and being able to enjoy it all without having to wave a passport or change ski passes is even better.

It was the apostle Paul in the Bible who first compared the people in his church to a body, illustrating that while everyone may be very different, they were more successful working together. An eye does a different job to a hand, but together they make a great team. It’s a lesson well demonstrated by Portes du Soleil and their masterclass in regional cooperation.

From the reliable snow of higher altitude Avoriaz to the thermal spas of Val-d'Illiez; from the adrenaline of Les Crosets to the quiet charm of Champéry, each adds something unique. And that’s before mentioning the quirky village of Les Lindarets, best known for its collection of mischievous goats. Not every corner is ski-linked (some resorts like Saint-Jean-d'Aulps and Abondance require a free ski bus transfer) meaning the region doesn’t have the title of the world’s largest connected ski area, but the diversity more than compensates.

Avoriaz: altitude with attitude

At 1,800 metres Avoriaz is the highest resort in Portes du Soleil, boasting not only reliable snow but also famous angular, timber clad architecture and a car-free main street well known for its quaint charm. Those looking for lively après ski can stroll over (or catch a horse taxi) to La Folie Douce: by day known for its luscious lunches and cabaret style performances; by night for its live music and wild parties. Another "cool" spot for a drink is Village Igloo, rebuilt each winter from snow and ice, complete with carved sculptures and even sub-zero bedrooms for those looking to spend a night.

Avoriaz is one of the bigger villages in the region (almost 19,000 beds) which mean the slopes can get quite crowded over peak holidays, but it has many novel ski slopes waiting to be explored. The Stash is an eco-snow park constructed from reclaimed wood, winding through the Lindarets Forest with plenty of sculptures and secret passages that will keep you coming back for "one more run".

It’s sibling, Lil’Stash in the nearby forest of Proclou, is also worth a visit even without children in tow; it’s apparently made by the mythical “Shreddie” (a beaver/yeti/gorilla cross who used his powerful jaws to cut down trees to make the snow park) and consists of treehouses, mini jumps and tunnels (perfect for little legs who need a break from skiing).

From Mur Suisse to mellow miles

Skiing into Switzerland, my guide Alizée points to a former customs hut her grandfather used to stamp passports in: once a literal checkpoint, now a historical curiosity. Our destination is Les Crosets and its notorious “Mur Suisse” (Swiss Wall), a steep, mogul-strewn black run widely considered amongst the Alps’ most formidable descents. In low visibility and on ice, discretion feels like wisdom; I opt for the chairlift and a promise to return. Overall, the region has 33 vertigo-inducing black runs: offering more than enough avenues for expert skiers to get their adrenaline fix.

I was fortunate enough to stay in the Swiss town of Champéry for a few nights, without doubt one of the calmest and most relaxing places I’ve experienced. Just big enough to have its own train station, the main street is adorned with cute little Christmas trees and lights (which stay up well past the festive season) while snow-capped mountains surround the town, like giant sentinels tenderly standing guard.

That atmosphere is no doubt helped by the fantastic hospitality: whether steaming in the sauna at Le White Hotel or dining at the fabulous Le Centre restaurant, there’s an elegance to the Swiss way of life that’s very easy to get used to. As the website states, in what is undoubtedly one of my favourite slogans: "Here we like to eat, and we don’t take tourists for pigeons." Wise words indeed.

That relaxed atmosphere translates well onto the slopes. Watched over by the seven summits of the picturesque Dents du Midi (teeth of noon), I enjoy the quiet swoosh of skis over soft snow as I navigate through forest paths, barely any other humans in sight. Torgon in particular is known as one of the quieter ski areas, and I also enjoy skiing in Morgins with its RivellaFun Zone complete with fun speed checks for racing against friends.

Champoussin, with its sunny south-facing runs, completes the Swiss quartet. Notably, the Swiss sector has introduced beginner passes from CHF 10 (£9) per day for children (CHF 15/£14) for adults), lowering the barrier to entry at a time when ski affordability is under scrutiny.

Beyond the piste

Scale enables experimentation. Across the region you’ll find attractions like giant ziplines (fly at 100km/h and up to 240m high in the air), ice-climbing, ski touring clinics or even under-ice diving (for the very brave!). The events calendar is equally eclectic, spanning cheese championships to snow biking, dog sled races and winter trail obstacles.

Music lovers should bookmark March 15 and 21, 2026, to coincide with the return of "Rock The Pistes". The travelling festival stages open-air concerts across Morzine, Châtel and Morgins (accessible with a ski pass) blending live music from the likes of local acts Superbus, Stephane and Boulevard Des Airs with lift-linked logistics.

Skiing, like any mature travel sector, faces intensifying competition, from lower-cost destinations to resorts investing heavily in novelty infrastructure. What distinguishes Portes du Soleil is not a single headline-grabbing attraction but a collective proposition: altitude and accessibility, gastronomy and authenticity, high-energy après and restorative calm.

After all, reliable snow, mouth-watering gastronomy and good transport links make for a hard combination to beat. By merging all that is best in the area, from the family friendly slopes of Chatel to the forest trails of Les Gets, the Portes du Soleil domain demonstrates that in Alpine tourism, collaboration may be the ultimate luxury.

Know before you go:

• Located between Lake Geneva and Mont Blanc, the Portes du Soleil is a cross-border ski area between France and Switzerland.
• An adult ski lift day pass costs €68 and includes access to the 12 ski resorts making up Portes du Soleil.
• The Winter ski season runs from 20 December 2025 to 12 April 2026, with mountain biking and hiking popular in Summer.
• The closest airport is Geneva, and the village of Champéry is directly accessible by train.