From doctor fish pedicures to caviar creams, the ocean's offerings have long been swimming their way into our beauty routines. Fresh off the boat and making waves in 2024 is the 'salmon sperm facial' – Olivia Palamountain gives it a go

Fish-based skincare is nothing new. Its roots can be traced to the Romans, who used garum (fermented fish sauce) for its purported beautifying properties. Fast forward to 2024, and the latest viral beauty trend, the salmon sperm facial, has even the most experimental influencers raising eyebrows (if the botox has worn off, that is).

More politely dubbed the "polynucleotide facial" this treatment is a one stop shop for a rejuvenated, hydrated visage that combines microneedling with DNA extracted from fish testes: eek.

While fish sperm on your face sounds terrifying, you'll be in fine company; this treatment has attracted A-listers from Kim Kardashian to K-pop stars and Jennifer Anniston.There's also science behind the scales - marine ingredients are packed with proteins, vitamins, and fatty acids that are ideal for maintaining optimal skin health.

The science bit:

The treatment uses exosomes, tiny particles that help cells communicate with one another. These particles, sourced from salmon sperm, are rich in proteins, amino acids, and omega-3 fatty acids—key nutrients that can boost collagen production, enhance skin elasticity, and provide deep hydration.

The procedure combines traditional microneedling techniques with the topical application of these marine-derived compounds, which are introduced to the skin through the micro-channels created during the treatment.

Who's it for?

The salmon sperm facial is marketed as a solution for everything from fine lines to melasma, acne to rosacea. It is said to stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving skin firmness and elasticity, smoothing fine lines and evening out pigmentation.

Practitioners claim the treatment's "cellular-level action" can also strengthen the skin barrier and provide deep hydration for a plumper, more radiant complexion.

The treatment:

I headed to the Stoke Newington branch of aesthetic specialists, Simply Clinics, to get my salmon sperm fix, one of few outlets to offer this trending treatment.

My charming practitioner began with a thorough cleanse before taking sections of my face and slathering it in a serum packed with salmon sperm. She worked in stages over the cheeks, chin, nose and forehead, swiping a microneedling pen all over each area, reapplying more of the slime as she went to penetrate as much product as possible into my face. The procedure took less than 30 minutes from start to finish.

Scared of needles? Don't be! The experience proved surprisingly gentle (2/10 for discomfort) and felt more like a rough exfoliation  with some extra tingling sensations than anything injectable.

Globetrender's verdict:

Immediately after the treatment, I experienced significant redness and mild irritation, similar to a light sunburn. However, the discomfort quickly subsided, and I was able to head out for dinner that same evening – makeup-free, as recommended for the 24 hours post-treatment.

Over the next few days, my skin began to peel, revealing the end result: a smoother, plumper complexion, with noticeable hydration that lasted for weeks.

At £270 per session, the salmon sperm facial is undeniably a luxury treatment. However, the results – smooth, hydrated, and plump skin – make it a compelling investment. A course of treatments is recommended for the best effects, with packages ranging from £700 for three sessions to £1,350 for six. It’s not an inexpensive fix, but I’d definitely splurge again.

If you’re curious about the next frontier in skincare (and can look past the unusual source), this marine-derived treatment is definitely worth diving into.