REVIEW: Necker Island is a utopian hideout in the BVI
The home of billionaire Richard Branson, Necker Island has always been a magnet for world leaders and celebrities, but you can stay there too. Jenny Southan reports
Home to super-rich entrepreneur and space tourist Richard Branson, Necker Island is one of the most exclusive private islands in the world, and is available to book via Virgin Limited Edition, a collection of Branson-owned hotels and resorts around the world that also encompasses nearby Moskito Island (where guests can stay in the Branson Estate – read Globetrender’s review here), and Son Bunyola in Mallorca.
If you have watched the documentary series Branson, you will know that he bought the formerly uninhabited island for US$180,000 (far less than the original US$6 million asking price) back in the late 1970s, and has since installed numerous Balinese villas (most are available to guests but not his own home on the beach), three wind turbines and hundreds of solar panels in an effort to make it more self-sufficient.
Branson has also overseen the construction of a hilltop lodge called the Elders Temple where he hosts world leaders who together try to solve the world’s greatest problems. In 2021, he completed a rebuild of the Great House, which was destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017. (He married his wife, Joan, there in 1989.) On its roof is a crow’s nest hot tub with 360-degree views of the island and ocean.
Although Necker is Branson’s primary residence (he spends about 75% of his year here), the 74-acre island can be bought-out for exclusive use, even when the man himself is at home. (He’s friendly and often mingles with the guests, playing chess or joining them in the hot tub.) At certain times of the year, Necker also operates as a resort, with rooms bookable by the night, making it accessible to the rich, not just the super rich.
LOCATION
Necker Island is located in the North Sound of the British Virgin Islands, in the eastern Caribbean Sea, to the east of Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Travellers typically fly into Puerto Rico or Antigua, and from there need to take an onward flight to Beef Island (Tortola) or Virgin Gorda. Necker staff can arrange an airport pick-up and a 30-minute boat transfer, which drops you off at Red Dock.
I took a small charter plane from Antigua to Beef Island, which took about an hour. I wouldn’t recommend this option though, especially at night – it was terrifying flying through darkness and severe turbulence with only one pilot. The ascent was also very steep and fast, so by the time we landed, our nerves were shredded. Flying in a larger scheduled aircraft in daylight is much better (we did this on the return leg).
ETHOS AND SERVICE
I was very glad to have a glass of champagne on the boat as we sped across the water to the golden lights of Necker – an island paradise barely visible under the stars. The relief in arriving was glorious, and soon we were walking up steps to the Great House where we were welcomed with trays of cocktails. “Anything you need, just let us know,” we were told. “Anything?” asked one of my fellow guests wryly. Being on a private island gives you the feeling that anything goes, and anything is possible, but we weren’t there to put that to the test. Others, I’m sure, certainly have.
Necker Island has a somewhat wild feel – a proper desert island with areas of craggy rock and cacti, a lake with flamingoes, giant tortoises, palm trees and perfect white-sand beaches. Staff are youthful and the service is informal – most of the time you’ll be barefoot, and in no time at all, you’ll feel like you live there too. You can walk from one end of the island to the other in no more than 25 minutes, but there are also golf buggies (driven by staff) to get around.
Those seeking polished, traditional luxury won’t find it – and that’s a good thing. It would feel out of place in the setting. That said, whatever you need will be provided – bearing in mind it’s an island, and it can take a couple of weeks to import specific food or drink, so some requests need to be made well in advance, especially if you are particular or hosting a party.
Necker has long been a magnet for celebrities, musicians, politicians and even royalty – there are framed photos and thank-you letters in the Great House from former guests including Barack and Michelle Obama, and Princess Diana. It has a reputation for hedonism – and you’ll still find it (we experienced one of the legendary “white night” parties where we danced on the tables) – but these days, there’s a greater emphasis on fitness and wellness. Why? Because it’s Branson’s home, and he sets the tone.
During my stay, I spent a little time in his company and noticed he doesn’t eat sugar or drink alcohol, and he’s extremely fit. He plays tennis daily, kitesurfs, goes to the gym, does ice baths (I did one with him), and cycles up the steep inclines of nearby Virgin Gorda. A group of us set off with him before sunrise – a couple of people cycled with him, while the rest of us hiked to the top. Branson clearly knows that health is just as important as wealth. (You can read more here.)
For me, the ethos of Necker is one of fun and inclusivity. It’s a place to drop your pretences – which is probably why so many famous people enjoy retreating there. People dress casually, and there are no bills to sign or room keys to lock. Although Branson comes across as shy, he’s wonderful at bringing people together – hosting champagne-fuelled games of “tipsy tennis” (the only rule is you can’t let the ball roll on the ground) and engaging in meaningful conversation.
One evening, I took the opportunity to pitch him a new business idea – and he spent about ten minutes asking insightful questions and sharing encouraging remarks. I felt so galvanised by his attitude to being “audacious” that I’m now preparing to launch the business. (Above is a photo of us together.)
GUEST PERSONAS
I was staying on Necker as part of a press trip, so there weren’t any other guests on the island, but having spoken to staff, I learned that there is a mix of people who seek out the island. For New Year’s Eve at the end of 2023, one tech company founder rented out the entire island for a lavish party complete with fireworks over the sea and a fire-breathing dragon on the beach. I definitely got the impression that a lot of high-profile, high-net-worth, influential people stay on the island and some can be very demanding. Staff were deliberately discreet about not revealing any names.
From my time on the island, I noticed that staff had a responsibility to “get the party started” – one evening we did karaoke and there were staff leading by example, singing songs. At the “white night” party, our hosts cleared the dinner tables for us to dance on, and I was encouraged to go behind the bar and make cocktails for my friends. It is not a resort – it’s a home where anything goes (so long as it doesn’t contravene Branson’s unspoken rules of conduct – I expect there are limits).
I think a lot of people are probably attracted to spending time in the company of Branson – and hope to discuss business with him or get photos together for their Instagram. There are very few billionaires on Earth (if any) who open themselves up in this way and seem to have a genuine charm and take an interest in people, whoever they are. It’s also unusual that an “average” person can buy their way into his presence – there is nothing to stop someone making a booking on their credit card and just going. So there will also be people who are extremely grateful to be there.
ROOM AND INTERIOR DESIGN
Given that the villas have been built and rebuilt over several decades, the interiors are somewhat varied, but overall the architecture is reminiscent of Balinese resorts with dark wood and thatched roofs. Bali Hi is the most modern villa and probably my favourite in that it had a stunning infinity pool on the cliff overlooking the sea and rooms that were lighter and brighter.
I loved my room Leela Lo, which was positioned on its own on a promontory with its own wrap-around deck and views of the ocean and beach. The little villa is accessed via a pathway from the Great House down a long flight of about 100 steps, so you need to be physically able and willing to cope with going up and down these throughout the day. The sense of privacy was well worth it, though, and I loved the view of the shore and Bali Hi.
Most accommodations have aspects that are open to the elements such as outdoor showers and wall-free living rooms, meaning you do get large lizards visiting. I had a small gecko in my bathroom for my entire stay – it bothered me at first but I got used to it after a while. There is air conditioning in the bedrooms and you can keep the doors closed to keep out bugs. The really good news is there are no mosquitoes on the island.
Laundry and clothes pressing is free, which I appreciated, and some of the suites also come with vinyl record players and records (think the Sex Pistols and the Spice Girls), harking back to Branson’s days as founder of Virgin Music. In the communal areas of villas with multiple bedrooms are free bars stocked with spirits you can help yourself to. One evening I joined some friends at Bali Hi for a sunset gin and tonic by the infinity pool. Other features include terraces with hot tubs, outdoor baths and a kids’ room in the Great House with six hand-carved bunk beds, as well as toys and books.
MINIBAR
All rooms come with a proper fridge full of complimentary cans of soft drinks, Necker Island champagne, wine, beers, This Saves Lives cereal bars, Dairy Milk, crisps, ice, and blue plastic Necker-branded water bottles that you can refill from your own water filter machine (a Virgin Pure/Strauss Water partnership). You’ll also find a large bag of Caribbean Mountain Coffee and a coffee machine, sachets of SOS rehydration powder (good for hangovers and hot days) and Coola SPF lipbalm. I didn’t order any room service but there is a menu that lists about a dozen dishes that you can request around the clock.
FOOD AND DRINK
There aren’t any restaurants, as such, on Necker Island. Instead, food is served at set times in various locations – from swimming pools to beaches. As I was part of a group, food was either presented as sharing platters on long tables or as buffets where you could help yourself to a variety of hot and cold items. The highlight was undoubtedly Necker’s signature “sushi kayak” experience – yes, they literally fill a kayak with palm fronds topped with sushi and sashimi, and float in in the middle of a pool for you to eat in the water. It’s highly Instagrammable and made all the more fun by a male waiter wearing a mermaid’s tail.
In the morning, breakfast is typically served at the Great House (although one day it was set up on the beach). On ground level there is a nicely curated array of fresh coconuts, chia pudding, ginger shots, carafes of smoothies, sliced tropical fruit and mini muffins. You can sit anywhere you like but there is also an outside dining terrace upstairs, which has wonderful ocean views. An a la carte menu includes the Great House omelette filled with lobster and prawns, “lemur waffles” with sliced banana and Nutella, and a vegan “Beyond” full-English breakfast with Beyond meat sausages and bacon, mushrooms, grilled tomatoes and baked beans.
Considering you are on an island with a limited number of chefs, I was impressed by the variety of cuisines we were served, from curry to freshly made, wood-fired pizzas. If you buy-out the entire island, then menus are crafted to suit your requirements. The food we had was not Michelin-star fancy but you can get that in cities, so overall I found the lack of pretension to be quite refreshing. Except, perhaps, on my last night when the only vegetarian option for me was a plain baked potato and salad (my companions had lamb chops, grilled fish and potatoes topped with sour cream and caviar).
Outside of meal times, there is an all-day snack menu listing Necker Angus burgers, beer battered fish and chips, chicken satay, truffle fries, fruit skewers and chocolate brownies. All food and drink is included in the price so there are no cheques to sign at any point.
WELLNESS
Compared to other luxury resorts around the world, the wellness offering at Necker is modest, but I did have a truly excellent massage one afternoon in one of the open-air rooms on the beach. Products are from the organic Sodashi skincare range and all treatments are tailored to the individual. Options include: Jetlag Recovery (US$240 for 60 minutes), Emerald Cocoon Mud Wrap (US$120 for 30 minutes), and Crystal Chakra Balance (US$320 for 90 minutes). You can also get mani/pedis, waxes and facials. In the morning you can do al fresco yoga.
RECREATION
Rather than pampering, greater emphasis is placed on participating in physical activities such as beach volleyball and Hobie cat sailing races, as well as being in the sea – after all, it's the best tonic. There are various “toys” such as subwings, efoils, seabobs, paddle boards, wake boards and kayaks. PADI diving courses and bespoke activities such as beach olympics can also be organised.
What’s unique is that it is Richard Branson himself who sets the tone for how to spend a perfect day: a sunrise cycle up the nearby island of Virgin Gorda; followed by an ice bath (he coached me through one); a gym workout; and a couple of games of tennis, padel or pickle ball. And that’s not to forget chess for the mind – there are boards all over the island.
Branson is also an enviably good kite-surfer – he frequently surfs over to his neighbouring island of Moskito and there’s a photo in the water sports centre of him doing it with a naked model clinging on to his back. Inspired to “be more billionaire”, I signed up for a few lessons. It’s technical but if you put the hours in you can start to get the hang of it. (I got to the point of being “body dragged” across the middle of the ocean with an instructor clipped to my back and me controlling the kite – I needed more time to get on a board.) Other activities include joining a flamingo feeding at dawn and playing with the lemurs.
Guests can additionally book off-island excursions such as snorkelling at Oil Nut Bay or mangrove kayaking. I did the latter and loved it. About a year ago, Virgin Limited Edition partnered with environmentalist Alex Dick-Read from GroundSea Adventures to provide mangrove planting tours on the nearby island of Tortola. After Hurricane Irma struck in 2017, almost all of the mangroves along the coast were destroyed, but now (with careful nurturing) this vital ecosystem is coming back to life. Not only do the trees protect coastlines from erosion and provide a special habitat for marine life but absorb carbon dioxide from the air. Price: US$165 for adults including boat and taxi transfers.
WHERE TO WORK
Who comes to Necker Island to work? Well, I needed to do some emails and I found the most gorgeous spot on the beach by the watersports hut where I sat having breakfast with my laptop on a long wooden table and my feet in the sand. It was one of those picture-perfect “digital nomad” moments but I only got a couple of hour’s work done before I was lured away by a kite surfing lesson at the nearby water sports centre. Beyond that, work is probably done face-to-face over Pina coladas at the sit-up pool bar. Wifi performed well and video calls were fine.
For those who want to host a corporate retreat, the Elder’s Temple is the ideal venue for “blue sky thinking”, and Richard himself can be booked to speak, with the fee going to his charity, Virgin Unite.
ENVIRONMENTAL AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY:
Richard Branson's motto is: "If you’re lucky enough to be in a position where you are known around the world, for one reason or another, it’s incredibly important to set a good example to others.”
With this in mind, he has made a concerted effort to be as self-sufficient as possible, installing wind turbines on the far hill of the island, along with a field of 1,230 solar panels, a desalination plant using reverse osmosis, a sewage treatment plant and a composting system for organic waste. There are gardens for growing produce such as oranges, grapefruits and avocados, and about 100 chickens who lay 300 eggs a week. Amazingly, the island is now home to around 140 species of animals – 70% of which are facing extinction around the world.
Necker is a member of “Pack for Purpose”, a charity that invites guests to bring materials for local school children. At the same time, Branson's own Unite BVI is a nonprofit foundation based in the British Virgin Islands that focuses on bringing people, ideas and resources together to tackle community and environmental changes to benefit current and future generations. Some of these changes include improving education for local children, controlling the spread of mosquito-borne diseases as part of the BugOut BVI programme and, in partnership with the Branson Centre, supporting local entrepreneurs with the tools and knowledge they need to grow their businesses.
VERDICT
It has always been a dream of mine to stay on Necker Island and the experience didn't disappoint, particularly because I got to spend a bit of time with Richard Branson himself. This is a huge draw for other guests too – after all, he is probably the only billionaire on Earth who opens himself up to meeting with "normal" people and seems to genuinely enjoy it. I found my time on Necker Island to be inspiring and energising – it gave me a new perspective on the world, while having a dream-like quality to the experience. If you come, remember it is not a resort – it is someone's home.
PRICE
If you want to take over the entire island (there is accommodation for up to 48 guests), it costs from US$154,958 per night night including all meals and drinks, return boat transfers and water sports. Individual rooms cost from US$6,230 inclusive of all the same perks. (Note that minimum lengths of stay may apply).
These are the dates available for individual stays:
2025
16 - 23 April*
24 - 31 May*
19 - 26 July*
22 - 30 August*
13 - 27 September*
17 - 25 October
2026
24 - 31 May* (adults only)
16 - 23 July*
20 August - 3 September*
21 - 28 September*
20 - 27 October * 21 - 29 November*
*Check out only
HOW TO GET THERE
Virgin Atlantic flies four days a week between London Heathrow and Antigua. From there you can book Winair or InterCaribbean to Tortola, which takes about an hour.