Against a backdrop of island parties, Bill&Coo has been bucking the trend for hedonism with hospitality that revolves around metaphorical kisses and quiet conversation. Isabelle Cassidy reports

Mykonos has a reputation, and it’s not a subtle one. After a 20-minute drive from the airport, I’m expecting to be greeted by the beach clubs and superyachts that characterise the so-called "party capital of Greece". But as we arrive at Bill&Coo The Coast, someone has turned the volume down. Serene stillness is interrupted only by occasional distant conversation and the low hum of insects coming from nearby manicured bushes.

It feels like a fitting introduction to Bill&Coo, a hotel collection that’s spent nearly two decades championing the softer side of Mykonos. Having opened in 2006 as a 15-room boutique hotel overlooking Megali Ammos Bay, the collection now spans two distinct properties, the newer Bill&Coo The Coast and the original Bill&Coo Mykonos.

LOCATION

One of the pleasures of staying at Bill&Coo is being able to experience two different sides of the island without changing hotels. A free shuttle connects the two properties, making it easy to spend a day by the sea at The Coast before heading to Bill&Coo Mykonos for dinner, drinks or a spa treatment.

The original Bill&Coo Mykonos is a ten-minute walk from Mykonos Town by a pathway leading directly into the centre. It's close enough to wander in, while still feeling removed from the often intensely tourist-heavy crowded cobbled streets.

The Coast occupies a quieter stretch of shoreline overlooking the island of Delos, sheltered from the strong northern winds that regularly sweep across the Aegean, particularly during the summer months. During my stay, gusts whipped across the terrace at Bill&Coo Mykonos while guests at The Coast lounged beside the water in near-perfect calm.

While private beaches are technically forbidden in Greece, the stretch of sand in front of The Coast is as close as you'll get. Oversized striped daybeds are generously spaced across the sand, and attentive staff circulate between them with Aperol spritzes, ice water and whatever else guests might fancy from Beefbar's beach menu (Kobe beef gyros or a lobster roll on the sand, perhaps?).

ETHOS

For all the beautiful rooms and sea views, it was Bostani – a bookable private dining experience for guests – that told me the most about Bill&Coo. Greek for "garden" – tucked away between the villas is a walled green oasis where herbs grown metres away find their way onto the menu.

More dinner party than restaurant, executive chef Aggelos Bakopoulos prepares dishes in a wood-fired oven beside the table while generous servings of local favourites like Mykonian Cheese pie, tzatziki,  spicy feta and, of course, Greek salad are passed around to share. The mosquitoes are enthusiastic participants, but so is everyone else.

It’s here that hotel manager Olga Tsipouriari shares the story behind the Bill&Coo name. Inspired by the old English phrase "billing and cooing" (meaning to kiss and talk quietly), the collection was founded around the idea of connection: between guests and staff, visitors and Mykonos, and people sharing time together around a table.

It could easily sound like hotel-brand jargon, but small details made it seem genuine. Like learning the olive oil served throughout the restaurants comes from the founder’s family groves: a first press so good I’d happily drink the stuff. At one point, a huge serving of moussaka appeared – rich, comforting and easily one of the best things I ate all week, if not all year. The only downside? I was already too full to eat more than one piece.

GUEST PERSONAS

At The Coast, couples dominate the guest mix, from honeymooners to older travellers returning for sunshine and excellent food. Although children are welcome at Bill&Coo Mykonos, the atmosphere across both properties remains decidedly grown-up. Most guests spend their days moving between the pool, restaurants, beach and spa, though usually not at great speed.

INTERIOR DESIGN

Cycladic architecture provides the framework for both properties, with whitewashed exteriors and natural stone reflecting local building traditions. Inside, Greek-based designers K-Studio have created interiors that are understated rather than overtly luxurious. Exposed stone, poured concrete, rattan and pale wood sit alongside textured finishes and soft cream tones, while large openings ensure the sea is rarely out of sight – always allowing the landscape beyond to remain the focal point.

ROOMS

At The Coast, rooms step down the hillside towards the water, with options from beachfront junior suites to larger pavilions and grand suites with infinity pools. During my stay in one of the Hills suites, mornings began with the sliding doors pushed wide open, the terrace and room creating one continuous space. Beyond my pool, there was little but sea and clear open skies. Despite the open outlook, the space felt entirely private.

Inside, the rainfall shower opens directly onto the terrace, encouraging open-door scrubs with uninterrupted panoramic sea views. Add Diptyque amenities and three showers a day felt entirely reasonable.

The Hills suites do come with a compromise. True to their name, the (albeit short) walk back is fairly steep, although a quick call to reception sends a buggy your way within minutes. I’m not above admitting I used this service with enthusiasm.

At Bill&Coo Mykonos, every suite enjoys sunset views, and according to the team, the infinity pool suites are the most requested category. I can see why.

MINIBAR AND IN-ROOM DINING

After a day spent in the sun, the free in-room minibar quickly became an offering I was grateful for. Soft drinks range from ginger beer to Diet Coke, while Valrhona chocolate, Carpo nuts and jars of sweets are available to purchase. Room service runs around the clock.

RESTAURANTS: WHAT TO EAT

Mykonos isn't short of good places to eat, but with three restaurants spread across the two properties, it’s nice to have options without leaving the hotel.

Breakfast at The Coast is served from the open-air terrace overlooking the sea. After a few mornings of enthusiastically over-ordering, I came to the conclusion there probably wasn't a wrong choice on the menu. From tahini oats topped with fresh figs to fruit-laden Greek yoghurt bowls, pastries and egg dishes, the eggs Benedict with prosciutto became a personal favourite.

For dinner, YĒVO sees executive chef Bakopoulos introduce two tasting menus alongside a new à la carte offering, built around cooking over fire. Unlike many tasting-menu restaurants, there is very little ceremony – staff happily chat through each dish, but guests dictate the pace of the meal. The smoked goat’s milk ice cream with charred strawberries and burnt meringue sounded out-there on the menu, but ended up being one of my favourite dishes of the trip.

The only slight disconnect came from the soundtrack. An in-house DJ kept the music louder than I’d personally expect for a high-end meal, occasionally pulling focus from the food and drowning out conversations across the table. Then again, a reminder we are in Mykonos after all and the party is never too far away.

Over at The Coast, Coozest’s menu celebrates contemporary Greek cooking, with tomatoes from the hotel's own bostani garden, local seafood and generous dishes made for sharing.

If Coozest and YĒVO feel unmistakably Greek, Beefbar looks much further afield. Founded in Monaco by Riccardo Giraudi, the brand now has outposts from London and Paris to Dubai and New York. Despite the name, our waiter assured us: the menu is "not all about the meat,” pointing us towards sections named "Beef", "Leaf" and "Reef". While the wagyu gyros and filet mignon were delicious, personally, I found myself gravitating more towards the Greek cooking elsewhere in the hotel – although I do understand the appeal.

BARS: WHAT TO DRINK

Behind the scenes, Bill&Coo's dedicated Bar Lab develops many of the syrups, infusions and flavour blends used across the collection – and you can taste it in the balance of the clearly carefully crafted cocktails.

Wine lovers are also particularly well looked after. YĒVO's 43-page wine list showcases producers from across Greece alongside international labels, and waiter Dimitris introduced me to varieties I would otherwise have overlooked, including Oenops Apla White, which paired beautifully with several seafood dishes.

WELLNESS FACILITIES

Guests staying at either property have access to the Valmont Spa at Bill&Coo Mykonos. Although relatively compact, the facilities include a sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi and treatment rooms. I opted for the hydrating facial recommended by the spa team, which proved particularly welcome after a hot day spent exploring the island. Additional in-room experiences like private sound-healing can also be arranged.

WHERE TO WORK

Remote workers are not the obvious target audience at Bill&Coo. Communal life revolves around terraces, restaurants and the beach rather than indoor workspaces. Some larger suites include desks and wifi remained reliable throughout my stay, but the assumption is clearly that guests would rather spend their time looking at the ocean than their inbox.

INSIDER TIP

Ask the team to arrange a visit to Delos. Visible from The Coast and reachable by private boat in just 30 minutes, the tiny UNESCO World Heritage island was once one of the most important places in the ancient Mediterranean. Believed to be the birthplace of Apollo, it is now uninhabited, with visitors arriving to explore remarkably well-preserved archaeological ruins.

It’s a recommendation manager Olga insists every guest should make time for, and after a few days looking out towards Delos from breakfast, the beach and my terrace, it was impossible not to want to visit.

SERVICE

By the third morning, my almond milk iced latte was arriving before I'd ordered it. Returning to my room each evening, the lights had already been switched to night mode and a bottle of water left beside the bed. I also never passed a member of staff – whether housekeeping, maintenance or front of house – without being greeted with a warm hello. Not dramatic gestures, but details that create a sense of someone always paying attention, without the service ever becoming intrusive.

VERDICT

With beach clubs like Scorpios and Nammos only getting more social-media traction by the season, it’s easy to arrive in Mykonos thinking the trip will be defined by the next reservation. Somehow, mine ended up being defined by slower moments instead.

The views are spectacular and the rooms are thoughtfully designed, but what sticks is how much I looked forward to returning to the hotel after a day out. I never found myself wondering where else I should be. For a destination famous for encouraging you to go bigger, louder and later, Bill&Coo makes a compelling case for just doing the opposite.

PRICE

Rooms at Bill&Coo Mykonos start from £850 per night during peak season. Suites with plunge pools start from approximately £1,200 per night, while infinity pool suites begin at approximately £1,900 per night. Breakfast is included.