Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud speaks to Globetrender about his latest venture, Café Boulud at the Four Seasons Kingdom Tower in Riyadh, offering insights into the challenges and opportunities of bringing his style of French cuisine to Saudi Arabia.
What inspired you to open a restaurant in Saudi Arabia?
“It wasn’t part of a master plan, but rather based on relationships. I’ve had a long-standing relationship with Four Seasons, particularly in Toronto for 12 years. We were approached by the team here in Riyadh as they were looking to do something new and different with their restaurants. Riyadh is at a stage now where they can import talent, and it’s an exciting time to be a pioneer in this market.”
How does this project fit into your global culinary vision?
“I don’t have a specific global culinary vision, but this project aligns with my approach of building relationships and seizing opportunities. Being in Dubai already made it easier to consider this opportunity in Riyadh. Four Seasons was very committed, allowing us to choose the designer and have significant input in the project’s direction.”
What challenges and opportunities do you see in Saudi Arabia’s emerging culinary scene?
“The primary challenge is sourcing ingredients and finding reliable suppliers. For example, we’re still working on finding the right chicken that meets our standards. However, being with Four Seasons provides support and information about what’s available. Fish supply is another area we’re working on, ensuring constant supply from our suppliers.”
How often will you be changing the menu?
“We don’t have set seasonal changes. Instead, dishes change constantly throughout the year in different parts of the menu. We have four ‘muses’ in our menu structure, which allows for flexibility in offerings such as caviar, seafood towers, cheese, and charcuterie.”
How are you adapting your cuisine to local tastes and cultural norms?
“I’ve tried to have some sensitivity to local tastes while also catering to expats and visitors. We offer a range of dishes from traditional French to more local-inspired items. For example, we have a beef tartare which might appeal more to international guests, but we also have dishes with local influences like a Thai salad with a voyage to Thailand theme.”
Are you planning any programmes to train local culinary talent?
“Yes, I want to work with the hotel to develop programmes for training local talent. It would be a great legacy to help grow Saudi chefs. I envision sourcing young people from schools and creating apprenticeship programmes. We’ve done similar initiatives in New York with underprivileged kids, and I’d like to build a generation of Saudi chefs here.”
How has Saudi Arabia’s alcohol-free culture impacted your restaurant design and menu?
“The lack of alcohol revenue is factored into the business model, and menu prices are adjusted accordingly. We’ve had to adapt some recipes that traditionally use alcohol, finding alternatives to create similar flavour profiles. For example, we use spices like sumac to replicate the tannins and acidity that alcohol can provide in cooking.”
How does your experience in Saudi Arabia compare to your previous work with Saudi clients?
“It’s interesting because about 40 years ago, I worked for a Saudi family as a private chef in Cannes. It was a pleasure to work for them; they were sophisticated and appreciative. I learned a lot about their cuisine from their personal chef. Now, being here in Saudi Arabia feels like coming full circle. It would be lovely if that family could visit the restaurant one day.”
What unique elements can diners expect at your restaurant in Riyadh?
“We have several unique features. All our meats are cooked on a woodfired grill, and we have a rotisserie for chicken. We’ve also created some special desserts that blend French techniques with local flavours. For instance, we have a coffee dessert inspired by traditional Saudi coffee, featuring a light custard with coffee, caramel, cardamom, saffron, and cinnamon. We also offer a coconut rice pudding with mango and black lime, served with a bit of katafi pastry.”
How do you see the Saudi culinary scene evolving over the next few years?
“I believe we’ll see more international chefs coming to Saudi Arabia, not just from Europe and America, but also from South America and Asia. However, what I’m really excited about is the potential for local Arabic chefs to rise and join the global culinary scene. I think there’s a great opportunity for education and development in the hospitality and culinary fields here.”
How has the design of your restaurant been influenced by local culture?
“The restaurant has a beautiful “winter garden” extension that gives an alfresco feel while protecting from the heat. This indoor-outdoor connection is important in a climate where people spend a lot of time indoors. We’ve also considered local dining customs in our layout, although we still maintain a European-style dining approach with individual courses rather than shared platters.”
What’s been the most surprising aspect of opening a restaurant in Saudi Arabia?
“I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well-travelled and open to new culinary experiences many Saudi diners are. They’re very knowledgeable about international cuisine. Also, the level of investment and commitment from our partners here has been impressive. The restaurant and kitchen alone represent a significant investment, which shows the seriousness with which Saudi Arabia is approaching its culinary scene development.”
How do you balance maintaining your culinary style with adapting to local preferences?
“It’s a delicate balance. We maintain our core French techniques and standards, but we’re also incorporating local ingredients and flavours where appropriate. For example, we’re using spices like sumac to replace some of the complexity that alcohol might bring to a dish in other countries. We’re also offering a range of vegetarian options and dishes with varying spice levels to cater to different preferences.”