Geneva doesn’t exactly have a reputation for thrills, but a weekend this cosmopolitan little city proves neutrality is anything but boring. Olivia Palamountain reports
Geneva embodies the essence of a European crossroads. This pocket-sized powerhouse on Europe’s largest alpine lake is a global banking hub of just 200,000 citizens, a place where diplomacy meets decadence and life is chic.
The gateway to alpine adventures and the home of whispering luxury, cashmere-clad financiers join jet-setting sheikhs on Geneva’s handsome streets, leaving wafts of designer perfume and cigar smoke in their wake.
If the city smells expensive, that’s probably because it is – very. Ranking third in The Economist’s list of most expensive cities worldwide, Geneva’s cost of living is high, but citizens and visitors alike benefit from the city’s commitment to excellence. 
What Geneva lacks in obvious wow-factor, it makes up for with pristine streets, efficient public transport, top-notch healthcare and a very safe environment – it’s no surprise that the city consistently ranks among the best in the world for quality of life.
Not only has European Best Destinations has declared Geneva to be one of the best places to visit in 2024, but it’s clear tourists are also loving Geneva right now.
In the first six months of 2023, overnight stays rose by more than 26% to 1.6 million – a new record.
LOCATION
Geneva lies at the southern tip of its eponymous lake, or Lac Léman as it’s known locally, cradled between the towering Alps and the rugged Jura mountains.
At just a 1 hour 40 minute flight from London and a seven minute train ride from the airport into town, it couldn’t be more accessible from the UK.
Geneva is also brilliantly connected to the rest of Europe; trains to Paris, Lyon, Milan, Zurich and more leave on a regular basis.
WHERE TO STAY
Globetrender spent the weekend at the five-star Hotel Président Wilson, located on the shores of Lake Geneva with views of the Alps.
The hotel was named after Woodrow Wilson, the 28th President of the United States, reflecting Geneva’s role in international diplomacy, and the hotel attracts suitably high-profile clientele today.
While the 226 rooms and suites aren’t exactly groovy, they are spacious, distinguished and comfortable.
The hotel is famous for having one of the most expensive hotel suites in the world, the Royal Penthouse Suite, which occupies the entire top floor and has impressive security features – bullet-proof windows, armoured doors and a human-sized safe.
The entrance is guarded by surveillance cameras and magnetic sensors and the two main bedrooms have panic buttons.
The hotel has several high-end restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Bayview by Michel Roth, a spa that uses La Mer products, a small fitness centre and an outdoor pool that opens in summer.
WHAT TO SEE
Begin your journey at the iconic Jet d’Eau, a majestic fountain shooting water 140 metres into the sky, before strolling through the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, home to the St. Pierre Cathedral.
For a glimpse into Geneva’s role on the world stage, visit the Red Cross Museum or tour the grand Palais des Nations, home to the United Nations Office.
Bask in summer sunshine at the Jardin Anglais, home to the famous Flower Clock, or cruise glorious Lake Geneva – ferries depart regularly from various jetties on both sides.
Patek Philippe is the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship and the eponymous museum does not disappoint.
A four-storey temple to timekeeping that houses an extraordinary collection of watches spanning over five centuries, it features everything from intricate 16th century pocket watches to sophisticated modern chronographs.
The museum’s pièce de résistance are the Patek Philippe watches, including rare and one-of-a-kind pieces.
Interactive displays and expert guides bring the complex mechanics and rich history to life, offering insight into the painstaking artistry behind each exquisite timepiece. 
Science bods shouldn’t miss CERN, the world’s largest particle physics laboratory, while art aficionados can lose themselves in the eclectic collections at the Museum of Art and History.
As the day winds down, indulge in some people-watching at Place du Bourg-de-Four, the city’s oldest square, now buzzing with cafés, boutiques and antique shops.
Alternatively, wander through Cologny, the wealthiest neighbourhood in Geneva, where the average property prices are among the highest in the world.
WHAT TO BUY
We all know Switzerland is big on chocolate but according to Whitaker’s, the Swiss eat more chocolate than any other nation in the world, with an annual consumption of 8.8 kg per person (that’s about the same weight as a daschund).
The country’s chocolate-making history dates back hundreds of years, beginning with the establishment of its first chocolate factory in Geneva, 1819 by François-Louis Cailler (his company, which still exists today under the Nestlé umbrella, is considered the oldest Swiss chocolate brand still in operation).
Be sure to taste the real deal and explore Geneva’s rich cocoa heritage with the delightful Choco Pass, an adult treasure hunt of sorts – or a pub crawl – that grants complementary tastings at some of the city’s finest chocolatiers.
Ticket holders can build their own chocolate tour around however many artisans they wish to visit within a 24-hour period from the first bite.
I sampled a sensational caramel pavé at Canonica before heading to Sweetzerland for truffles.
A steal at £27 for adults and £5 for children, the Choco Pass adds a playful dimension to a wander around the city, and you can even find participating chocolatiers at Geneva Airport, for a last-minute cacao fix or to pick up some sweet souvenirs.
DINING: WHERE + WHAT TO EAT
Café du Centre: Expect an elegant menu that blends classic French cuisine with local Swiss flavours at this buzzy brasserie. A fixture of the city’s dining scene since 1933, it’s renowned for impeccable seafood, particularly the freshly shucked oysters, lobster and local delicacy of fried perch.
Kiosque des Bastions: This iconic park pavilion, with its distinctive octagonal shape and elegant wrought-iron details, has been a local hotspot since the 19th century. Today, the café and restaurant is perfect for champagne on the alfresco terrace, or a leisurely lunch – think excellent salads, a seafood bar and a variety of pasta. Don’t miss the dessert trolley.
Cottage Café: Located on a grassy patch near the Brunswick monument is this Hansel and Gretel-inspired cabin cafe, which serves light lunches with views of Lake Geneva.
Bayview by Michel Roth: Looking to blow the budget? Chef Michel Roth’s Michelin-starred restaurant showcases an innovative approach to French cuisine that has earned him numerous accolades, including the prestigious Bocuse d’Or. Check out the signature lobster or feast on the seven or ten course tasting menu.
Café des Négociants: An iconic spot that serves traditional, refined cuisine, from snail casserole and pan-fried frogs’ legs with parsley to the entrecôte carougeoise. The prix-fixe menu is a steal at £60, washed down with one of more than 100 wines from the restaurant cellar.
Brasserie-Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville: Follow the scent of melted gruyère to this charming Old Town haunt, where raclette and fondue are king. Pimp out the latter with extra truffle or go for the exquisite steak tartare, served tableside. It’s always packed, so be sure to book.
WHERE TO WORK
At the heart of the city, Impact Hub Geneva buzzes with social innovators, while the multiple locations of Voisins provide a vibrant community atmosphere across town. Tech enthusiasts, meanwhile, flock to Seedspace Geneva, tapping into a global network of startups.
STANDOUT INNOVATIONS
Geneva’s new Summer Transport Card offers free public transport for cardholders and special discounts of 30 per cent on activities including paddleboarding, bike rides, guided tours and e-TukTuk rides. 
Don’t miss out on the Golden Ticket initiative: 12 Geneva Summer Transport Cards will be drawn during the summer (until September 15), with winners receiving a Golden Ticket entitling them to a range of superb experiences, from hot-air balloon rides to paragliding flights over the mountains, catamaran cruises, rafting adventures and privately guided city tours.
ECO CREDENTIALS
From the GeniLac project, which harnesses the lake’s waters to cool and heat buildings, to its extensive network of electric trams and buses gliding silently through the streets, Geneva is weaving sustainability into its very fabric.
The city’s skyline is increasingly dotted with green buildings and solar panels, while its streets buzz with electric vehicles plugging into an ever-expanding charging network.
A commitment to urban biodiversity means that amidst the hustle and bustle, you’re never far from a tranquil green space.
Below ground, an advanced recycling system efficiently manages waste, and the innovative water management keeps the city’s taps flowing with some of the world’s cleanest water.
INSIDER TIP
Bain Bleu is a sleek thermal bath and spa complex with incredible views of the lake and mountains from its alfresco pools.
The best bit? More than just a spa, the onsite cafe sells alcoholic drinks that you can bring into the outdoor baths with you, making this the perfect aperitivo spot to watch the sun set.
VERDICT
I couldn’t have been more impressed by this sophisticated little city. Some people call Geneva boring; I’d say it offers a lesson in embracing the joy of the ordinary.
With its soothingly balanced approach to work, rest and play, plus its undeniable beauty, Geneva offers a refreshing antidote to the frenetic pace of larger metropolises.
The lakeside promenades, dotted with locals enjoying leisurely strolls or impromptu picnics, embody the city’s appreciation for life’s simple pleasures, while the city’s commitment to precision and quality, evident in everything from its watchmaking heritage to its culinary scene, creates an atmosphere of understated excellence.
In a world that often equates excitement with constant stimulation, this city reminds us of the value of calm, order and measured enjoyment, proving that sometimes, the most profound experiences come wrapped in the guise of everyday life.