Music Tourism AKA ‘Gig Tripping’ is one of the biggest travel trends of 2024. Amy Rose Everett argues that Portugal is one of the world’s hottest destinations to do it.
Partially based in Lisbon, I’ve quickly learned that Portugal’s events calendar is busy. Dozens of traditional yearly festivals dominate the mood, from Lisbon Carnival on Shrove Tuesday, through to Santos Popolares, June’s month-long celebration of popular saints. No sooner have locals overcome their Sagres hangovers, NOS Alive welcomes a stream of music lovers from around the world each July.
In 2024, Passeio Marítimo de Algés hosted 55,000 festival goers across three days for the 16th year. Usually partial to boutique, cross-cultural festivals like MOGA, I was game for checking out one of Lisbon’s biggest music events. NOS Alive is known for reliably eclectic lineups and a scenic waterside location, nominated yet again this year for the prestigious Marketeer Awards in the Arts, Culture and Entertainment category.
That’s testament to its growing influence in the cultural landscape of Portugal – and I’m convinced that Lisbon will soon rank near Ibiza, Barcelona, Manchester and London for music tourism.
According to data collected from January to October 2023, Portugal achieved record levels of guests 26.3 million (+13,7%), overnight stays 68.5 million (+11%) and revenue €22.3 billion (+19,8%) compared to 2022 (Source: Visit Portugal).
A huge factor being relatively cheap prices; hotel nights and concert tickets. They’re a steal compared to those of the American destinations topping Skyscanner’s list of music hotspots in 2024 (the likes of New York, San Francisco, Miami and Los Angeles).
At the time of writing, NOS Alive day passes were €79, and two-day passes were €158. Over in Indio, California, Coachella ‘24 tickets were divided into tiers determining prices. Tier 1 general admission started at US$499 before fees, Tier 2 at US$549, and Tier 3 at US$599.
Pearl Jam, Dua Lipa, Arcade Fire, Floating Points, The Smashing Pumpkins, Khruangbin, Benjamin Clementine, Parcels, and Jessie Ware were among the biggest names playing NOS Alive this summer – an eclectic mix of pop, indietronica, rock, funk, and R&B, appealing to every age group.
Arriving at the sun-soaked, sweaty venue early evening on Thursday, the diversity of the crowd was noticeable. From the get-go the vibe was relentlessly energetic, the main arena filling up as the sun (finally) went down on another scorching day in Portugal.
Flying in fresh from Glastonbury festival, my first impression was jarring; I was struck by the abundance of commercial brand partnerships, from the drone show that morphed into a moving Heineken advert, via the garish astroturf enjoying a Brat summer, to the glowing vape and tobacco shacks.
Categorically not how things are done on Michael Eavis’ dairy farm, the festival that needs no marketing. Yet judging by the accents heard all around, festivals in Portugal are drawing discerning British and American crowds – in their droves.
I was reminded of the hundreds of Taylor Swift fans who specifically flew to Lisbon from the USA to catch the Eras tour. New York-based fan Natalie Studdert told me a combination of price and a love of Lisbon cemented her decision.
“We were looking in Europe because the tickets were so much cheaper, it’s so much more affordable to go. It was a long weekend in New York; we figured with four days we could very easily fly over, enjoy Lisbon and fly back, killing two birds with one stone.
“The price difference was wild – we got Taylor Swift floor seats for US$600 a pop – which compared to the US is insane. The tickets at the US shows started at US$1,500 for seats right up the back. Floor tickets for Miami started at US$4,800 resale. The mark up and the price gouging in the US is just crazy.
“I met people in the airport who got tickets for the Friday show and ended up buying tickets to go back on Saturday. They were selling nosebleed tickets the night of the concert for around US$150. It’s just incomparable to what we’re able to get in the States.”
After this experience, Natalie knows to be more organised next time, and will check to see what other festivals Portugal has to offer.
She says: “We booked two weeks out, so it was really expensive. Everything in Lisbon was more than double what it would normally be. We stayed in Alfama and it was wonderful, really close to everything. All in all, flights, tickets and accommodation were US$3,500, so not cheap, but we made an entire vacation out of it. If we’d made the decision earlier we’d definitely have saved on flights and accommodation.
“We got in on Friday night, had a beautiful night bar-hopping, eating dinner and dancing. We stayed on New York time (so had a few big nights out!), wandering around Alfama before getting ready for the show on Saturday night. On Sunday we went out for breakfast, jumped on the train to Cascais, went shopping, and ate some of the best seafood I’ve had. We partied one more night on Sunday, then grabbed the flight back home Monday. It was amazing.
For now, it’s still among the cheapest countries in Western Europe. Restaurants and bars offer fantastic local produce for good prices. I love authentic spots like Acarajé da Carol and Taberna Albricoque, or classic tasca A Tigelinha, where you can expect to pay around £30 for two mains and a bottle of wine.
On my first night at NOS Alive, a hazy sunset show from Southend On Sea’s hit rock band Nothing But Thieves set the tone for a raucous weekend of world-class guitar music. The band were delighted to see a large forming, and finished with a beautiful cover of Pixies’ Where Is My Mind?.
Moody clouds framed the Palco NOS Stage stage as the same audience stuck around for Chicago-born alt-rock stalwart The Smashing Pumpkins, who proved they’re still as punchy as when they formed back in 1988. Celebrating 20 years of Funeral, frontman and guitarist Billy Corgan shared his love of Portugal’s capital:
“They ask me where my favourite place to play is, and I say it’s here.”
“James, do you remember when it rained at the [Campo Pequeno] Bullring?” he asked his bandmate.
“No,” came the reply. “Sorry. We’re old as hell.”
Old or not, the band delivered a blinding set, launching with crowd pleaser The Everlasting Gaze.
Later on the Heineken Stage, Australian electro pop five-piece Parcels were equally pumped to be reunited with their loyal Portuguese fanbase, the atmospheric tent heaving with fans. One member said:
“Every time we come to Lisbon it’s an absolute shock. Is there something in the water?
“Was anyone here when we played two years ago?”
“I have no doubt we’re gonna walk away tonight and say, ‘F*** me, they did it again’.”
The band’s performance of hits Somethinggreater and TiedUpRightNow proved his point, as thousands of fans chanted every word until the lights finally went out.
Confetti cannons were readied to round things off on the main stage as Canadian indie-cum-baroque pop-cum rock band Arcade Fire received an uproarious welcome from Portuguese fans. Win Butler and Régine Chassagne, who performed at Lisbon’s popular MEO Kalorama festival less than a year prior, seemed just as enamoured with the European crowd.
More artists than ever are experiencing global streaming success, contributing to their appeal and growing their fan bases around the world. A notably large number of NOS Alive’s biggest hitters hailed from the UK. In 2022, the BPI (the UK association of independent and major record labels) revealed that on average, 80 per cent of streams by the most successful UK artists occur overseas. They went on to say, “In some cases, it is as high as 90 per cent”.
Warming up the Palco NOS stage from 10pm, English singer and songwriter Arlo Parks filled in last-minute for South African singer and songwriter Tyla, held back by an injury since March. She launched into beloved songs including Black Dog and Caroline with ease, her crowd sticking around to watch yet another Brit, the long-anticipated headliner Dua Lipa.
Over on the Heineken Stage (more branding), the night was London-born Michael Kiwanuka’s. The British singer-songwriter pulled no punches with dreamy and intimate visuals, highlighting the beauty of Black culture.
Finishing the set with a powerful performance of Cold Little Heart (if you’re not a fan, you might recognise the song from the opening credits of HBO series Big Little Lies), a noticeably Brit-heavy audience was brought to tears.
And finally, the main event: having caught her Pyramid stage set at Glastonbury Festival just a couple of weeks prior, I was ready to see Dua prove her point one more time: it’s her world, and we’re just living in it. Excited tweens and their parents made up much of the crowd, a real joy to see.
“I love being with you tonight. I love dancing with you.
“I had a chance to speak to the festival organisers beforehand and the inclusivity here is really beautiful.”
Dua mentioned the inclusivity NOS Alive festival is becoming known for; going above and beyond to provide accessible platforms for people with reduced mobility at the NOS, Heineken, and WTF Clubbing (dance) stages. I’d noticed dedicated spaces for pregnant women, and would say it’s a safe, child-friendly environment for families despite some crowding later into the night.
As with Dua’s Glastonbury performance, a strong rendition of Be The One was a stand-out moment, taken from her self-titled debut studio album released in 2017.
The festival’s final day brought a vibe switch that could give you whiplash; a sea of green Pearl Jam T-shirts did much to explain why Sunday tickets sold out in just 48 hours. The majority of ticket holders were there for the grunge icons led by iconic singer Eddie Vedder.
He ran through cult classics like Alive, Daughter, and Black before the crowd cheered to the opening chords of Even Flow. Songs from the band’s new album Dark Matter were just as eagerly received – it’s easy to see why the band feels so at home in the Portuguese capital. After three days watching break-out stars and old school favourites, one thing was clear to the observer – most bands do.
A key takeaway from my time at NOS Alive? Crossing genres and breaking barriers is the norm. From folk-pop singer Alec Benjamin and alt-pop act AURORA via genre-bending DJ Floating Points, the diversity of the lineup ensured that there was truly something for everyone. Asking around, I met people who’d come from as far as Spain, Amsterdam, Ireland, Italy and even Canada.
The festival takes care to spotlight local vendors and businesses, ensuring that the economic benefits extend to the surrounding area. This year’s WTF Clubbing was curated by Portuguese agency Match Attack on 11th July, and for the second consecutive year by Decked Out! on July 13 – both working to share the best in electronic music, while promoting local talent.
The Comedy Stage made a triumphant return too, bringing together some of the biggest local names. Daily host Catarina Moreira and comedians such as Gilmário Vemba and Eduardo Madeira added another string to the festival’s bow.
NOS Alive’s ability to attract such a varied crowd speaks to the universal appeal of the music it showcases – and the open-minded charm of Portugal. In future years, I can only see the appeal growing for gig trippers from around the world, and deservedly so.
Things to do in Lisbon after the concert
Beach clubs:
Relatively new on the Costa da Caparica beach club scene, dreamy Casa Reia attracts big spenders looking for Balearic beats and a place to be seen in their new kaftan. Think large seafood sharing platters, glittering sunsets, high quality wine and beautiful people grooving to acoustic instruments.
More low key are the spots further along the coast in Font da Telha; Kailua serves some of the best toasties you can hope to find, while Praia Piscina offers the chance to chow down on a rotisserie chicken and popcorn shrimp after a day of lounging on “bungalow” daybed for €50 (two people). The taxi ride back to central Lisbon over the big red bridge is spectacular, especially after a few cocktails.
Bars:
Recently named one of the coolest streets on the continent, Rua da Boavista is the first point of call for in-the-know revellers, stacked with low-key pizza joints (with long waiting lists), snack spots, clothing shops and craft beer bars. I like sour beer and fried chicken from MUSA, or chilled red wine and small plates at Fares, before listening to vinyl at Boa Vista Social Club. Time Out Market is round the corner – always crowded, but you can’t really go wrong.
History:
I always recommend the thought-provoking African Lisbon Tour, connecting people from around the world willing to discover new perspectives on history. Guides work hard to sensitively analyse and explain Portugal’s participation in the transatlantic slave trade and colonisation, before sharing excellent African food and drink. The Lisbon Earthquake Museum takes a (very) quirky, immersive walk through the capital’s past, detailing the dramatic natural disasters of 1755 that changed the city forever.